Thursday, August 6, 2009

Beneath The Basilica

At 11 this morning, we found ourselves descending into the Scavi—the excavation chamber beneath the Basilica of St. Peter. It's the Pope's church and has been the site of the lead altar of the Catholic church since Peter himself kicked things off in the first century after Christ. Peter was an Apostle. He was the first Pope of the Roman Catholic church. He was crucified in Rome, and buried in the ground beneath what is now the famous Basilica that bears his name. (He was entombed later.)

Archaeologists have found bones that are believed to be S Peter's. We learned that although they have found an entire set of a single man's bones, the feet were not found. Peter was crucified upside down. The church believes his feet may have been cut off.

The 40 minutes we spent beneath the floor of the Basilica of St. Peter were filled with fascinating and spine-chilling facts. They were also filled with funky, musty air.

When Jo Ann and I saw Tom Hanks whisking down the stairs into the Scavi earlier this year in 'Angels and Demons,' we couldn't have known how humid and moldy it was down there. We also couldn't have imagined how cool it would be. From the late-'30s through the '50s, the Catholic archaeologists dug and dug and found a piece of history that, despite it being right under the most significant chiesa in all of Christianity, nobody knew was there. Turns out the Basilica's predecessors was built on the Vatican graveyard. It was literally filled in with dirt to make a flat surface to build the churches that preceded today's Basilica. I'm not sure how the Vatican history books didn't document this, but they didn't.

We saw family tombs dating back to the first and second centuries, when Catholicism was a minor force in the world. When people prayed to Gods and Goddesses and Muses—Copia, Terminus, Melpomene, Neptune, Janus and that ilk. We saw burial inscriptions that conveyed the humor of men. One guy was described as having always had something funny to say, and never said a bad word about anyone. Another person was a Roman tax collector in the territory of Belgium. His epitaph described how vicious he was. Brings things into perspective. We humans have changed in, say, the past 2,000 years, but not much elementally.

We saw something else—right when we got into the Scavi: the burial tomb of a boy. As our guide told us about high infant mortality rates in ancient times, we all stared at the tomb (which was open, lit and the remains removed) and thought of Pablo. Of course we did.

The tomb had a relief of the grieving mother on one end (you can see her in this photo). On the other end was the grieving father (and one behind the camera). Along the long sides were reliefs depicting a child's happy life.

I was so taken by this tomb, I broke the no photos rule to snap the above pic. I got busted. It embarrassed the hell out of Jo Ann and Grady. I apologized to them and our guide. They all forgave me. I forgave myself.

And I got my shot.

5 comments:

Puanani said...

That is a magical shot. I am sure if you explained the last several weeks of your life, they would have allowed the photo. I am glad you have it though. You are all so brave.

Jenny said...

any person or god would forgive you for needing to preserve that image for yourself...the people who made the tomb, or had it made, needed to preserve their son's memory, and their own sadness in imagery, too, and it survived all of this time to speak to you in the same way that it spoke to them, and you are speaking to us...we humans really haven't changed much, just the means of communication and the speed with which it's possible to communicate have changed.

Tish Hearne said...

I am soooooo glad to read that you took that shot of the tomb!! What an amazing work of art; I am so moved by the story depicted from it. I have embarrassed my husband and kids on occasion when I knew in my heart that breaking the "no photos" rule was worth the risk. I bet your natural reaction to the beauty of the tomb was what got you caught! :)

I'm sitting in the library in Mammoth right now relaxing with internet connection. All three of you remain in our hearts and prayers. I love how Pablo "touched" Grady in Rome; it looks as though the butterfly (or Pablo I should say) is pointing everyone in the right direction.

There's been a full moon for us since we arrived in Mammoth on Wednesday, so talking to Thomas has been effortless. I've been looking for butterflies - which have become very significant in our lives since Pablo's passing - and every time our eyes land on one, I think of Pablo; the message that speaks to me is that Pablo and Thomas are experiencing playful childhood moments together.

May God continue to bless you on your travels! Thank you for sharing your time with us.

bdaub said...

Very good job taking that picture. Sometimes rules are meant to be broken.

Haley said...

Good for you for getting your shot. Sometimes rules shouldn't count...as in this case! Thank you for sharing it with us!